Q & A: Water Odors, Levelers, and a Quieter Ride

Q. I’m a full-time RVer living in a 40-foot Class A and I’m having a problem with a bad odor coming from the hot water heater. I had some problems last winter in Arizona and had the tank drained several times. Each time I drained the tank, I had some type of white sediment come from the tank. I sent an e-mail to the people who make the water heater and they do not recommend using an anode rod in their tanks. I have flushed the tank with a strong solution of bleach, which takes cares of the odor for a while, but then it comes back again. Is there something I can do to keep this problem from recurring every month or so?

A. The odor is most likely coming from the water source. Copper piping and galvanized piping release an odor, depending on the type of water passing through it. City water is treated and well water is not. Change the water filter in the coach and purchase a filter that will install on the city water source. Carbon filters work well on wells, since they filter out the smaller microbes. Anode rods help with sediment, but can block screens in the faucets.

Q. The two rear levelers on my motorhome won’t retract properly. The left rear one will go up only if I pry it off the ground. The right one has to be pushed up into place. It won’t retract by itself. Both front levelers work just fine. The fluid level is 1/8 of an inch from the top. Do you have any idea what the problem is?

A. Based on the information you provided, I’ll have to assume your vehicle is equipped with spring-loaded jacks. The springs can be either inside the cylinders or outside the cylinders. A couple of issues might be contributing to your problems. First, if the fluid level in the tanks is at 1/8 inch from the top with the jacks down, there is too much fluid in the reservoir. It is not allowing the tanks to vent fluid. Reduce the amount of fluid level in the tanks back to manufacturer’s specs and retest. If that isn’t the problem, you may have corroded seals on the jack cylinder or weak springs. Try cleaning the rods and cylinders and applying a dry lubricant. Work the cylinders up and down a few times to see if this helps. If not, bring your vehicle to your nearest ROUTE 66 RV Network dealership to have a Certified RV Technician diagnose and repair the problem.

Q. I love my Class C motorhome. But on a recent cross-country trip, my wife and I encountered some pretty rough roads and found the overall interior noise — shaking, rattling, doors banging open — to be extraordinarily annoying. It was exhausting to listen to all day. Do you have any tips on what we can do to cut back on the noise?

A. To help reduce the amount of noise in your unit, try placing newspaper between the pots and pans. This makes a good insulator. To further cut kitchen noise; use paper or plastic dishes and silverware. Plastic storage containers are also effective in keeping items safe and helping to reduce the noise. Sliding small pieces of cloth-sided Velcro between door jams and cabinets work well for the banging situation.

Q. I’ve had motor coach for six years now, and have noticed that my water pressure is inconsistent. For instance, if someone is taking a shower or flushing a toilet, I have little to no water pressure at the kitchen sink. Are there any products out there to help me regulate my water pressure?

A. Your water pressure depends on whether you’re hooked up to city water or pump pressure. City water pressure will be more consistent. Change the water filter, if you have one, to a different micron size. Unscrew your anode rod and check for deterioration; replace if necessary. If you’re on pump pressure, turn the screw in your pump head to increase pump pressure shut-off times. Shurflo makes a product that acts like your bladder tank at home that keeps a constant pressure on the lines until you need them.

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